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Food

Sama at The Grandview Hotel - Bringing the warmth of Lebanon

Looking for a standout Lebanses dining experience in Melbourne? In the quiet suburban embrace of Fairfield, where Melbourne's inner north unfolds with unpretentious charm, a new star has risen. Sama Grandview, nestled within the storied walls of The Grandview Hotel - a heritage-listed pub dating back to 1888 - opened its doors in late 2025, and it already feels like a destination worth crossing the city for.

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"Sama," meaning "sky" in Arabic, is an apt name for this venture from Eddy Hasbani, the affable former manager of Brunswick's beloved Rumi, where he spent 11 years honing a deep understanding of Middle Eastern hospitality. Hasbani's vision is clear: to infuse bold, authentic Lebanese flavours with warmth, colour, and an inclusive spirit that welcomes everyone to the table. The result is not just a restaurant but a vibrant celebration of Mediterranean soul, set against the timeless backdrop of one of Melbourne's classic corner pubs.

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The Grandview Hotel itself carries the weight of history. Completed in 1888 on Station Street, it has long been a community anchor in Fairfield, evolving from a traditional boozer into a family-friendly venue while retaining its Victorian-era bones - high ceilings, ornate details, and a sense of enduring conviviality. Hasbani has transformed the main dining space into something ethereal: soft lighting, textured tables evoking Lebanese craftsmanship, and a playlist of classic Lebanese tunes that loops with understated charm. It's warm and inviting, never pretentious, with the hum of conversation blending seamlessly with the sizzle from the open kitchen. Service is exceptional - attentive yet genuine, infused with Hasbani's contagious passion that radiates through his team. On my visit, his personal generosity elevated the evening, making it feel like dining with extended family.

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The menu leans into sharing, with the El Tashkila banquet ($75 per person, with judicious add-ons) offering the ideal journey through Hasbani's (and Head Chef David's) repertoire. It's a parade of big, bold flavours grounded in healthy Mediterranean principles: warm spices, fresh herbs, vibrant vegetables, and proteins treated with reverence. We began, as one should, with drinks that set a sophisticated tone. The wine list shines with imports from Lebanon's Bekaa Valley, particularly the Château Heritage selections. The Rosé 'Dune Nuit' is magnificent - crisp, floral, with a sunset hue that mirrors the restaurant's celestial theme. The Blanc de Blancs sparkles with elegance, while the robust Syrah proved a flawless partner for richer dishes.

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Cocktails are inventive standouts: the Smoky Old Fashioned, blending Irish whiskey, American bourbon, and Islay scotch in a cherry wood- and sumac-smoked glass, delivers layers of intrigue. Even better is the Double Apple Shisha, a playful nod to hookah culture with white and spiced rum infused with green and red apple citrate and juice - refreshing, evocative, and utterly addictive.

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The banquet unfolds in generous waves, starting with house-baked pita, still warm and pillowy, accompanied by tangy house pickles and olives that snap with brightness. Silky labne, drizzled in za'atar, is pure comfort, its creaminess cutting through the acidity. The baba ghanoush is a revelation: smoky eggplant dip elevated by black garlic and a flaxseed crunch that adds textural magic. Cheesy rkakat—crispy pastries stuffed with halloumi, gouda, mozzarella, and feta, laced with za'atar—are indulgent bursts of molten joy. Hummus with chickpeas provides a classic anchor, but the true opener stole the show: whitebait fatteh. Crispy pita chips layered with tahini yoghurt, toasted pine nuts, and fresh dill, topped with delicate fried whitebait - it's off-the-charts good, with impeccable presentation and a harmony of crunch, cream, and herb that lingers on the palate.

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The second course shifts to heartier territory. Tender lamb kofta shish arrive perfectly charred, juicy, and spiced, paired with saffron rice that's spicy and delightfully crunchy - almost like a Persian tahdig influence sneaking in. A fresh cabbage salad provides cool contrast, its simplicity underscoring the kofta's boldness.

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The mains peak with the six-hour braised beef cheek moghrabieh, a dish that embodies a mastery of slow cooking. The cheeks melt in the mouth, infused with deep, savoury richness, mingled with plump chickpeas, pearl couscous, and a scatter of parsley for freshness. It's soul-satisfying, paired exquisitely with that Bekaa Valley Syrah. Fried cauliflower brings golden, crisp florets with a subtle spice, while the seasonal fattoush refreshes with Lebanese fried bread, cucumber, tomato, radish, herbs, and a pomegranate dressing that ties everything in tart-sweet harmony.

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Dessert is pure spectacle. The knafe mille-feuille is a showstopper: layers of golden kataifi pastry encasing a creamy "Sama" filling, crowned with pistachios - textural heaven with honeyed sweetness balanced by nutty depth. Little bites of Turkish delight arrive as a playful finale, dusted in icing sugar and bursting with rose or pistachio notes.

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It is clear Sama Grandview is more than a new opening - it's a heartfelt project that revives Lebanese dining with authenticity and joy. Hasbani, drawing from his Rumi legacy, has created a space where flavours soar, service shines, and history meets modernity. In a city spoiled for Middle Eastern options, this Fairfield gem stands out for its generosity, precision, and sheer deliciousness. Whether for a banquet feast or à la carte exploration, it's essential eating. Eddy and his team have poured their hearts into this sky-high endeavour - Melbourne is richer for it.